Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.
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PROBLEM Dark Circles SOLUTION Undereye circles can appear purple or bluish due to age-related skin thinning that reveals the muscle or blood vessels under the skin, according to Tina B. West, dermatologist at The West Institute for Skin, Laser & Body Contouring in Chevy Chase, Maryland. "Look for concealer that's the opposite color of circles to counterbalance, like orange," she says. "Then, on top of the concealer, apply a foundation that's one shade lighter than normal." But be warned: While peach or pink hues can help conceal bluish undereye circles, it's important to fi nd the right shade, stresses Lauren Ploch, board-certifi ed dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology at the Georgia Dermatology and Skin Cancer Center in Augusta, Georgia. "Too much orange can make the eyes look 'sick,' while too much pink may bring out the violet-purple shade of undereye circles in some skin tones." For light skin, look for light peach or pink tones; darker skin calls for medium or darker shades. PROBLEM Fine Lines and Wrinkles SOLUTION Crow's feet are hardly something to crow about. Seek out formulas with ceramides—lipids that keep the skin moist—to counteract dryness and offer an antiaging boost, Ploch recommends. "Also look for skin-repairing peptides and antioxidants (such as vitamins C and E) to prevent further damage," she says, adding that a lighter-weight concealer can camoufl age both lines and dark circles when layered with a highlighter. West notes that retinol is helpful for thinning skin and fi ne wrinkles, but the formula must have a low concentration to avoid irritation of the sensitive skin around the eye area. "For aging skin, set any concealer application with a translucent or slightly yellow-based loose powder so it doesn't settle into fi ne lines," she adds. PROBLEM Redness SOLUTION Ploch advocates using a green-tinted color correction formula to counteract redness—or choose a traditional concealer in a shade that's slightly more yellow or green in tone than the natural skin. PROBLEM Puffi ness SOLUTION Fluid retention triggered by factors such as seasonal allergies or salt intake often results in morning puffi ness, thanks to fl uid collecting in the facial area as we sleep. Choose undereye formulas containing caffeine, which helps de-puff by constricting blood vessels. "To counteract puffi ness, clients should apply the concealer with a patting motion from the inner to the outer corner of the eye, which helps the product settle and encourages excess lymphatic fl uid to drain away from the undereye area," West explains. "You can also refrigerate any products for use around the eyes or try a cooling gel formula to quell puffi ness." PROBLEM Acne SOLUTION Ploch notes that thick, oil-containing concealers can cause milia (small, white, acne-like cysts) around the eyes in acne-prone skin. Choose formulas labeled noncomedogenic, and take note of ingredients. Interestingly, Ploch adds that refi ned mineral oil, applied to clean skin, is a safe choice for acneic types. "For a lighter touch, try a highlighter applied in a triangle shape below the eye," she suggests. "For acne-prone skin, I prefer liquid or lighter-weight concealers with a wand or brush applicator." PROBLEM Dryness, Sensitive Skin SOLUTION Too-heavy formulas can also prove unfl attering or unhelpful for combination, dry or sensitive skin. For dryness, West recommends lightweight products containing humectants (think hyaluronic acid or glycerin), which draw moisture to skin. "Look for concealers that treat dry skin without settling into wrinkles or caking on any fl aky areas," Ploch adds. "They can make everything look worse!" Undereye concealers often contain oils, and oil is the enemy of the majority of eyelash- extension adhesives. "Most manufacturers advise consumers to use oil-free eye makeup remover to cleanse the eye area, but oil-free formulas are able to dissolve and remove concealer and other products because they contain solvents—and solvents are often a major culprit in dissolving the lash extension adhesive," says cosmetic chemist and NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei. That's one of the reasons NovaLash offers oil-proof lash extension adhesive, which broadens the options for extension wearers. "If you stick to oil-proof lash adhesive and solvent-free, oil- based eye makeup remover, clients can choose any concealer that best suits their skin," Merszei says. Another option is to skip eye makeup remover and use an extension-friendly lid and lash cleanser instead. (See p. 36 for recommendations.) 42 eye | la | JULY/AUGUST 2016 | eyelashmag.com