Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.
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STAY FLEXIBLE. Roshar notes that gently bending strip lashes is helpful for softening the bands, especially if they're a bit stiff. "Flex it so that it lies with the natural curve of the lid," adds Lytle. DARE TO FLARE. Although individual lashes take a bit longer to execute, pros love how versatile they are. "I always apply individual lashes right at the base of the lash," says Marshall. When deciding between knotted or knot-free, she adds this bit of advice: "Knotted fl ares have more surface area for adhesive so tend to be more durable and resilient; knot-free is best for when you need a fi ller to be undetectable. STRIP DOWN. Lately, a lot of artists are reaching for the half-, third- and quarter- width strips. "They are fantastic for a downturned eye as their lift gives balance," says Marshall. "I always apply them at least 2 millimeters in from the end of the eye to give them more of a lift or an almond shape." BE TRUE TO YOUR GLUE. Makeup artist and Ardell educator Rachel Pagan emphasizes the importance of fi nding out if a client is allergic or sensitive to latex, and selecting adhesive accordingly. A lot of pros place the glue directly onto the band or base of the false lashes straight from the tube, with preferences for the color and application method varying quite widely—but Marshall likes to place adhesive on the back of a clean hand and then run the base of the false lash through it. "Use tweezers to hold the false lash for better control whilst doing so," she suggests. Roshar says he'll often put the adhesive on a toothpick fi rst, and then apply it to the falsies to minimize mess and excess; Bolkin does the same with a pointed tweezer. STICK THE LANDING. Experts almost unanimously advise waiting 10 to 20 seconds for adhesive to become tacky before placing the false lash. "Once the lash is in place, use a small, pointed brush to touch up the edges with a bit more adhesive," adds Lytle. "This helps to prevent lifting." Celebrity makeup artist Marni Burton, who works with KISS Products, Inc., notes that the back of a tweezer can also be used for this purpose. If you make a glue misstep? "Use a Q-tip and waterproof eye makeup remover to fi x it," Burton suggests. EXPLORE THE UNDERSIDE. Bolkin has a unique approach to applying strip lashes, which involves placing adhesive on top of the band. Then, while asking the client look down, she gently pulls the brow upward to lift the eye and applies the strip directly to the underside of the lashes. "Because the glue is on top of the strip, the false lashes bond directly to the natural lashes—you don't want them touching the skin or waterline," she says. "This technique takes a bit of practice and works best with lighter lashes with invisible bands—but when it's done properly, you can't even tell that there are false lashes there." FINISH STRONG. Lytle advises against applying mascara to false lashes, especially if they're made from real human or animal hair, as they tend to get clumpy. However, Marshall says that a little dab will do. "Use the very tip of your mascara wand to adhere any wayward natural lashes to the false lash," she suggests. "This acts like an adhesive without adding too much extra color or product." Lytle also recommends reapplying eyeliner after strip lashes are in place. "This gives it a soft, fi nished look," she explains. When your clients see the end result, they'll be sure to demand an encore. 52 eye | la | JULY/AUGU ST 2016 | eyelashmag.com