Eye Lash

MAY-JUN 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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Page 42 of 59

eyelashmag.com | MAY/JUNE 2017 | eye | la 41 people: the greeter, the fl oor judge and the fi nal judges. "Make sure that you know who those people are," says Brand. "The greeter is the one who tells you where you need to be and what the rules are. Listen to that person because you can easily be disqualifi ed for being in the wrong area at the wrong time." The fl oor judge will inspect your overall setup and gel pad application, and will be judging you through the entire lash application process, checking for cleanliness and tweezers pressure, and making sure the model's eyes aren't open. To impress the fl oor judge, keep your area neat and tidy. "Floor judges want to see how organized you are," says Brand. "Also, don't blot your adhesive on the gel pads. Judges do not want to see that. They want to see it nice and white. And if you have to write your lash map on the gel pad, make sure you don't use black ink, because a fl oor judge might think it's glue." She advises using a colored ink, like green or pink, to head off confusion and prevent losing points unnecessarily. A group of fi ve or six fi nal judges will evaluate your fi nal work. Judging is blind, which means judges aren't permitted to see the lash application process or even know which lash artist worked on a given model. What they're looking for may vary slightly depending on the competition and the category you're competing in, but key criteria include isolation, adhesive control, base adhesion, distance from eyelid, symmetry and balance, coverage, and overall impression. Some pro tips for acing these elements: ISOLATION/SEPARATION. "The golden rule of eyelash extensions is that no two lashes should be stuck together," says Lee. "You want zero stickies." ADHESION. "Judges are brutal when it comes to brushing the lashes. We brush and brush and brush. We're trying to pop off those lashes, just to see how your adhesive is," says Brand. "You can lose anywhere from a half point to a full point for every fan or extension that pops off." With fi ve or more brush-wielding judges coming at your lash work, she recommends erring on the side of using slightly more adhesive to ensure a solid bond. DISTANCE FROM THE EYELID. This element shows your artistry, technical capabilities and professionalism, says Jasilionyte. For Classic lashes, the recommended distance from the eyelid is 0.5 to 0.8 mm; for Volume lashes, it's 0.3 to 0.5 mm, she says. "The distance has to be the same in each section of the lash line—there can't be any ups and downs. To achieve this, you must always tape WHAT COULD GO WRONG? Five common competition snafus and how to handle them. [ 1 ] FRAYED NERVES. Even the steadiest hands are likely to shake on the competition fl oor. "Nerves play a huge role during competitions, and even the best lash artists can fail," says Jasilionyte. "That's why it is important to minimize stress as much as you can." Make sure you're very comfortable with your model, and don't try to cover 100 percent of her natural lashes, she advises. "I never actually have seen full coverage during competitions—judges care more about quality than quantity." One more tip we heard over and over: "Take deep breaths and remember that you're in a competition against yourself and nobody else—the ones who do this are the ones who keep calm," says Brand. [ 2 ] DISTRACTIONS. Many lash competitions take place in the middle of a trade show, where noise and other distractions abound. If the rules permit headphones, make a competition-length playlist to help you stay focused, suggests Brand. Encourage your model to do the same. [ 3 ] DROPPED TWEEZERS. "It's not a matter of if you drop your tweezers, it's when you drop your tweezers," says Brand. "If you drop it, leave it. Do not bend over and pick it up. Bring two to three pairs of tweezers you love. Have extras and move on." [ 4 ] STICKIES! "One important technical mistake I see a lot is poor isolation," says Lee. "When they call the last fi ve minutes, take that time to thoroughly check your work and release any stickies you have." [ 5 ] MODEL MISHAPS. Models need to be comfortable during a long lashing session, but pajamas and messy hair are not OK in front of the fi nal judges. Make sure your model is presentable, says Brand. Also, ask your model to wait until all judging is completed before heading to the restroom. "I've seen it happen a couple of times where the model went through the fl oor judging, then went to the restroom but never came back for the fi nal judging, thus disqualifying the lash artist," says Brand. Coach your model to go easy on the liquids and eat a light breakfast on competition day. the skin of the upper lid slightly up, whether the model has hooded eyelids or not," she explains. STYLING/OVERALL IMPRESSION. It's not uncommon for models to show up with eyebrows that are poorly shaped or overdue for a wax. This may hurt the judges' overall impression and can even compromise your lash-styling efforts. "If you know how to style lashes the right way, you'll follow the same patterns that you use to shape a brow," says Brand. "Styling is so huge." ELIZABETH TURNER is a freelance writer and editor based in Los Angeles. COURTESY OF NOVALASH 2017 NovaLash LASHoff Lash Artist of the Year Sarah-Anne Barham (third from left) accepts her prize from the NovaLash team.

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