Eye Lash

JUL-AUG 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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18 eye | la | JULY/AUGUST 2017 | eyelashmag.com master class GET SMART ISOLATION TIP! Having issues with "stickies"? It could be that your adhesive hasn't fully dried to allow a fi rm bond. Before releasing your tweezer grip, hold the extension in place for a few seconds to ensure it adheres before moving on to the next extension. Your Lash Curl Primer! They may be a group of letters, but when it comes to lash extensions, recognizing how J, B, C, D, L, L+ and U work will allow you endless creative opportunities with your lash artistry. But before you drill down on what each curl does, follow these tips from Scott Hoonakker, chief fi nancial offi cer of PremierLash. 1 ANALYZE EYE SHAPE. First things fi rst: Figure out the eye shape and then map accordingly. "This takes into account where the longest lashes are applied to create lift and the illusion that the eye is bigger and more open," says Hoonakker. 2 FACTOR IN FULLNESS AND COLOR. Find out how much volume your client desires (and what her natural lashes can hold), and include this in your map. If you want to include color or highlights, you'll want to determine placement for this as well. 3 USE LENGTH PROPERLY. "A common mistake stylists make is placing the longest lashes at the outer edge of the eye," says Hoonakker. If your client has downward- sloping or almond-shape eyes, this type of mapping "causes the eye to appear tired or sleepy." 4 MAP FOR THE FUTURE. Once you've mapped the desired style, Hoonakker suggests saving your notes so that you can emulate the same lash design for the client's next appointment—unless she wants to change it up, that is! J Curl Mimicking the natural shape of eyelashes, these straighter extensions have a slight curvature at the tip and lend a more natural appearance. Hoonakker notes that with all of the other options of curls available, the J Curl has fallen out of favor with most lash artists. B Curl This curl's bend falls between the J and C Curls, and is typically used for the inner corners of the eye and bottom row of lashes. B Curls are a popular choice to blend with C Curls to create texture and lift. C Curl These lashes give clients a bright, wide-eye effect without looking too heavy or dramatic. C Curls tend to be blended with other curls for texturizing. Hoonakker shares that lash artists favor the C Curl because it appeals to both young and middle-age demographics. D Curl This curl brings on the drama. Used to create the illusion of a bigger eye, the D Curl is typically blended with other curls for texturizing. Be forewarned: Due to the degree of the curl, these lashes tend to not last as long on straight natural lashes, so map accordingly. L Curl Ideal for straight or downward sloping lashes, or for clients with hooded eyelids, this curl gives natural-looking lift, and has a straight base that allows for a stronger, longer bond. L+ Curl Also ideal for straight or downward sloping lashes, or for clients with hooded eyelids, L+ or "L Lift" Curls offer a more dramatic- looking lift than L, and tend to resemble a C Curl with a straight base. U Curl With a curvature of 180 degrees, this lash is the curliest extension type and creates a dramatic, open-eye effect. However, because they curl back upon themselves, they tend to touch the eyelid, which can be irritating for some wearers. If clients have heavy lids, use a shorter-length U Curl. Ardell Lashes is named after a combination of the husband- and-wife founders' fi rst names: Arnold and Sydell. eye FY

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