Eye Lash

JUL-AUG 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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eyelashmag.com | JULY/AUGUST 2017 | eye | la 35 for reliable bonds. However, keep in mind: These numbers can vary a great deal according to the manufacturer (which doesn't always mean "brand") as well as the particular formula being used. "If humidity is low (less than 30 percent), setting time can become slow," Altieri says. "If humidity is too high, a shock polymerization takes place, which provokes a shrinking process of the adhesive layer, leading to less bond strength." To be safe, check with the adhesive's manufacturer for both recommended humidity levels and peak performance test results. Esther Bolkin, director and founder of Glad Lash in Northridge, California, notes that you may use a nanomister or nebulizer in dry environments, but proceed with caution: If the nanomister or nebulizer deposits too much moisture on the lashes, the adhesive can bloom—i.e., white spots form on the edges of the adhesive. However, some formulas bloom more than others, or not at all. Sydney Farrell, content manager for Lash Affair by J. Paris, lash artist and owner of Dollface Salon in Scottsdale, Arizona, adds that temperatures also affect performance. "Higher temperatures tend to contribute to faster curing; molecules in the adhesive move faster, causing them to bond more quickly," she explains. This happens because warm air can hold more H 2 0 molecules and these molecules bond faster because they bump into each other more quickly. Not surprisingly, cold air isn't capable of holding H 2 0 molecules well. So, "conversely, lower temperatures suspend the molecules for a period, preventing polymerization from starting too soon," Farrell adds. When looking at peak performance for a CA-based adhesive, Merszei says that any extreme temperature-proof adhesive can be used while working in an environment of high or low moisture levels. "The best quality adhesives not only withstand average, mean or median room temperatures, but are actually designed to have peak performance levels in an even broader range of room temperatures," she says. "This is one reason why some adhesives develop a cult following, people are willing to pay more and they actually end up saving money at the end of each year. Asking manufacturers questions about peak performance test results is strongly suggested for anyone shopping for eyelash extension adhesives." WHAT'S YOUR TYPE? Regardless of your local weather conditions, having a thermo hygrometer to determine humidity levels and temperature in your lashing area can be helpful, but Amanda Jacobellis, CEO of Makeup Mandy Eyelash Bar and Makeup Studio in Los Angeles and creator of LAshX, warns that these do not read relative humidity, which is what you need to be aware of with CA adhesives. However, knowing what type of climate you're working in allows you to climate control your area; then, you can talk to your adhesive manufacturer about "the adhesive characteristics and which is best for low, medium or high humidity," Altieri notes. When purchasing adhesive, Michelle Mirizio, a NovaLash brand ambassador at Let's Talk Makeup Salon & Spa in West Palm Beach, Florida, suggests also asking the following questions: What's the shelf life, both for when the adhesive's opened and unopened? How should I store the adhesive? Is the adhesive waterproof and/or oil- resistant? Bolkin believes that stocking one type of glue is suffi cient, as long as the working environment is climate Pro Retention Tips Farrell recommends the following pointers to ensure tip-top retention in any climate: 1 2 3 4 5 Replenish your adhesive dot when it becomes too dry to spread. Dip your lash in the center of the glue dot—never drag out horizontally, double-dip or wipe off excess adhesive on the gel pad if it has started setting even the slightest bit. It's acceptable to have enough adhesive on the extension so that it forms tiny beads, but they must be smoothed out well. In a very dry environment, dip the lash in slowly and remove slowly, ensuring that enough adhesive is on the extension so it bonds well. Never use more than a 2mm drop of adhesive.

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