Eye Lash

JUL-AUG 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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GETTY IMAGES 36 eye | la | JULY/AUGUST 2017 | eyelashmag.com controlled. If you tend to travel for either competitions or services, you may wish to have a variety of adhesives on hand in case you can't control your environment. And Farrell suggests asking manufacturers to send a copy of the adhesive's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) sheet. "This will let you know what additives have been used to prevent the breakdown of the adhesive and can help you determine which works best for your environment," she explains. MAKING IT LAST Smart steps can help prolong the life of your adhesive. Farrell notes that most CA-based adhesives have a shelf life of 12 months unopened, and one month after opening. "Store your adhesive in a cool, dark, dry environment," she advises. "Never store adhesive in the refrigerator after opening, as the temperature fl uctuations can cause condensation within the bottle, [leading to premature polymerization and solidifi cation]." (Learn more about this process in "Science School" on page 22.) Bolkin also recommends storing adhesive away from direct sunlight, with the bottle facing up. "Don't leave off the cap for extended periods of time," she adds. "Let the adhesive drip out; squeezing the bottle allows additional air to enter." Humidity can impact the shelf life of your adhesive, so Altieri suggests storing it in an airtight jar, zip bag or bottle with a package of silica gel. "After removing the cap, press a lint-free wipe or cosmetic sponge over the nozzle and shake vigorously for 30 seconds," she says. "After using, wipe the nozzle again and close the cap tightly." Mirizio recommends avoiding extreme temperature changes and stocking too many bottles to avoid adhesive breakdown. Meanwhile, Andrea Caban, vice president and lead trainer at The Lash & Brow Academy in Encino, California, uses a pushpin to open a new bottle, helping to maximize usage and eliminate any excess air in the container. TRACY MORIN is a freelance writer and editor based in Oxford, Mississippi. Mirizio breaks down some tech tools that alter air quality: An air purifi er/ cleaner removes contaminants from the air; humidifi ers increase humidity, while dehumidifi ers reduce humidity; and thermo hygrometers measure moisture content in the atmosphere. If the workspace air fl uctuates often and climate control is, well, out of your immediate control, a thermo hygrometer is a must. "Choose one with a clock to help guide you," Caban recommends. "If the adhesive dries too fast in high humidity, remove moisture from the air: Run a dehumidifi er, or increase the heat or air conditioning [within reason]. To speed up curing time in low humidity, use a facial steamer, humidifi er or spray bottle to add moisture." Altieri suggests a dehumidifi er if the environment is consistently above 66-percent humidity, or a whole- room humidifi er if lower than 35 percent. Chanel Baring, owner and founder of San Francisco- based Sass and certifi ed Lash Affair trainer, uses a dehumidifi er when humidity reaches over 50 percent. She places the dehumidifi er to the right of her worktable, then turns it on until the humidity reaches 40 percent, her preferred level. Conversely, Farrell, who works in a dry climate, turns on a humidifi er to reach 35 percent to 45 percent. Of course, you'll have to fi nd your own sweet spot, but these tools will help you get there! HUMIDITY- PROOFING YOUR BUSINESS Troubleshooting Tips Farrell helps troubleshoot your humidity-related concerns. ISSUE: When brushing through the lashes, they pop off, or the extension isn't sticking on the natural lash. CULPRIT: High humidity and temperature, causing the adhesive to cure too quickly. SOLUTION: Use more adhesive to properly bond the extension to the natural lash. Isolate properly to avoid multiple natural lashes from being bonded together. ISSUE: The extension falls over once placed on the natural lash, or the lashes stick together. CULPRIT: Low humidity and temperature, causing the adhesive to cure slowly. SOLUTION: Use less adhesive and/or use a humidifi er or nanomister during the service. Or take two cotton rounds, saturate with water and wring out. Fold in half and put the damp half-circles on the client's cheekbones, which bumps up moisture to help the adhesive cure quickly.

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