Eye Lash

SEP-OCT 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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18 eye | la | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 | eyelashmag.com master class GET SMART Help Her Spot Damaging Lash Extensions As lash artists, you hope that your clients will remain faithful to you—but there's never a guarantee. What if they leave you for another artist who damages their lashes? They may return to you for much needed TLC, but it's always good to keep them informed about what a botched lash job looks like—in the event they stray. Here, Lisa Sbragia, owner of Fluff Lash + Brow Boutique in Libertyville, Illinois, and founder of the Association for Damage-Free Eyelash Extensions (ADFEE), offers these bad lash detection tips that you can pass to your clients—just in case. 1 THEY LOOK CLUMPY. If extensions look clumpy, spidery and splay in all directions, they haven't been applied correctly or individually. "They're stuck together, which is essentially what causes natural eyelashes to become damaged and can leave lash line gaps," says Sbragia. 2 YOU FEEL THEM. "Eyelash extensions shouldn't feel like anything," she notes. 3 THEY'RE PAINFUL. Any pinching and poking at the lash line is a sign of ill- applied extensions. "If they feel tight, that's because each natural lash grows at a different rate, and lash extensions that have been incorrectly applied and are stuck together can pull other natural lashes out prematurely," she says. 4 THEY GROW OUT OF CONTROL. Does she notice that between fi lls the extensions grow out of control and some simply won't lay the right way? "This is most likely because they're stuck to other lashes," says Sbragia. 5 THEY LOOK SPARSE AT FILLS. "If fi lls look more sparse over time, it's due to premature natural lash loss over time as the damage becomes worse," she says. PASS IT ON: There is no price that can be put on your professional reputation. When doing your homework prior to selecting an adhesive, consider the health and safety of your clients, your own health and safety as a professional, and the ability to maximize your earnings. To do this, ask these fi ve questions: 1 CAN I SEE A TOXICITY, MUTAGENICITY AND PURITY REPORT FROM AN INDEPENDENT, THIRD PARTY. ACCREDITED LAB? These reports will give confi rmation that you are working with a healthy adhesive that won't expose either you or your clients to adhesive that is poisonous, can cause mutations, and hasn't been distilled and purifi ed correctly. 2 CAN I SEE THE INGREDIENT LIST? The adhesive should contain an ingredient that is a proven elastomer. If it doesn't contain this, the cyanoacrylate (the main component of lash extension adhesives) will form a very brittle, dry bond that is prone to cracking and crumbling. 3 IS IT 100-PERCENT WATERPROOF? Adhesive should be 100-percent waterproof immediately after application with no need to wait before a client can wash her face. 4 WHERE IS THE ADHESIVE MANUFACTURED? Geography matters: If the adhesive is being made in China, it has to sit on loading docks and in transport for quite a while. To combat this kind of problem, Chinese manufacturers add a solvent to dilute the adhesive so it doesn't arrive completely dried up—and this compromises the end formula. 5 IS MY ADHESIVE MAKING ME MONEY OR LOSING ME MONEY? If you choose an adhesive that costs 50 cents less per client, but crumbles down, causing you to lose the client because she doesn't have time to come in for touchups every two weeks, your yearly profi ts are going to suffer. Successful lash artists know how to break down the math. —SOPHY MERSZEI, MOLECULAR BIOLOGIST, COSMETIC CHEMIST AND PRESIDENT OF NOVALASH, INC. 5 Key Questions to Ask Before Selecting Lash Extension Adhesive ALL THINGS MICROBLADING Think you know every brow tattoo term out there? Here's a rundown of the lingo that's being permanently etched in microblading terminology. 3D, 4D or 6D Brows Microblading pros rely on multiple ink colors to add dimension to their hair strokes, with 3D meaning three ink shades or needles are in play, while 4D and 6D each mean the same with the respective color shades/needles. Color Correction If a client comes in with previous microblading from another artist, you may need to work a bit harder—think: blurring, color-matching ink and fi xing discoloration—to net the best result. Eyebrow Embroidery Another term for microblading. Feathering A technique that works wonders on clients who are lacking in natural brow hair, this blends hair strokes and shading for depth, and is usually applied with a digital pen. Hair Strokes This is what sets microblading apart from regular brow tattooing: The service involves creating what looks like individual hairs for a more natural appearance. Microstroking Another term for microblading. ✽ Glossary: BOTTOM, LEFT: GETTY IMAGES; TOP IMAGE: COURTESY OF LISA SBRAGIA

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