Eye Lash

SEP-OCT 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

Issue link: http://eyelashmag.epubxp.com/i/872084

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eyelashmag.com | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 | 47 COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; ANDREEA ANGELESCU (4) 1 2 3 4 1 Becca Cosmetics Beach Tint in Raspberry, beccacosmetics.com 2 MAC Cosmetics Versicolour Stain in Energy Shot, maccosmetics.com 3 Jane Iredale Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain in Forever Red, janeiredale.com 4 Benefi t Cosmetics Gogo Tint Bright Cherry Tinted Lip & Cheek Stain, benefi tcosmetics.com 5 Ardell Beauty Forever Kissable Lip Stain in Ruff Ride, sallybeauty.com 6 Yves Saint Laurent Glossy Stain Lip Color in Orange Graffi ti, yslbeautyus.com THE SHOW: Preen THE ARTIST: Val Garland THE IDEA: Snogging THE TECHNIQUE: A dab of MAC Lipmix in Red applied to the middle of the lips and then blended outward created a "kissed-off" halo of color— all topped with MAC Lipglass Clear. THE SHOW: Public School THE ARTIST: Grace Lee THE IDEA: Out all night THE TECHNIQUE: Finger-patting on red pigment produced a diffused look, while applying Maybelline Color Sensational The Loaded Bolds in Midnight Merlot to the middle of the mouth with a fl uffy brush further blurred the fi nish. THE SHOW: Giorgio Armani THE ARTIST: Linda Cantello THE IDEA: 3-D lips THE TECHNIQUE: Strategic placement of three different colors and textures created dimension, with Giorgio Armani Lip Maestro in Art Deco as the standout hue applied smackdab in the center. THE SHOW: Cividini THE ARTIST: Lottie Star THE IDEA: Doctor Zhivago THE TECHNIQUE: Madina Italia Cashmere Eyeshadow in 05, a matte wine hue, supplied the stained effect on the middle of the pout while a coat of clear gloss lent a melted fi nish. THE SHOW: Giambattista Valli THE ARTIST: Val Garland THE IDEA: Hot, sexy and sweaty THE TECHNIQUE: Blurred edges brought the mixture of MAC Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolor in Carnivorous, Dance With Me and High Drama into hazy soft-focus. 4 A Lasting Mark Whether delivered by brush, felt tip, bullet, wand or your fi nger, these stains last … and last … and last. diff use into the lip and build the tone as needed," she says. "I don't lean toward the runnier, liquid formulas as they typically stain on contact and you don't have as much wiggle room to buff and blend." And, trust us: You may need those extra few seconds to get the look right. Applicators Matter As far as pout products go, lip stains tend to have a diverse range of included applicators—think: felt markers, skinny bristle brushes, fl at wands and more. But for the makeup artist these included applicators are a moot point. "I never apply using the actual applicator the product comes with for sanitary reasons," Duprey says. Instead, she assesses what her intended look will be, and then goes in one of two diff erent directions. "If I want a 'just-bitten' look, I use my fi ngers to apply, and if I want a more opaque stain, I use a brush," she says. While fi ngers allow pros to blur the color more eff ectively, makeup artist Colleen Runné, who works with celebrities such as Jennifer Connelly and Brooke Shields, says that a soft, wide, fl uff y shadow brush can also be a stain savior (depending, again, on the coveted end result and product consistency). Williams agrees, "I almost always use a fl uff y brush, like the Cozzette S175 Eye Contour Brush, to stipple on the shade. Using a fl uffi er brush gives me the ability to build the stain without it looking painted on." Working With Stains Because stains can set quickly, premeditation nets ultimate stain success. "Start small and begin the application in the center of the lips. If you're unsure about your stain color and placement, put a decent amount of balm on the lips fi rst, and then play around with the amount of pressure and delicacy you'll need to diff use the lip color," says Williams. is way, if the color and placement don't meet your client's needs, you can easily wipe off the stain and start again. "You'll have a far less messy stain that way with the balm as a barrier," says Williams. Unlike liquid lipstick, stains apply more sheer— but that doesn't mean they lack in the intensity department. " e key to getting the right intensity is to let each coat dry between application," says Duprey. However, she warns that some stains don't dry down to a completely matte fi nish, and instead remain slightly tacky. " ese types of stains can go patchy if you apply a few coats," she laments. If you're looking to build opaque, consistent color, choose a matte fi nish stain. Surprisingly, stains have plenty of fl exibility—if you manipulate them. e popular stain treatment for editorial artists usually concentrates the color on the center of the lip, mimicking a long night of sipping wine or, as Runné views it, sucking on a popsicle. "But, you can also apply the stain as a wash where you use a softer, small shadow brush, and diff use the color with a fl uffi er brush," she says. "Or, you can blend the stain with lip balm to create a diluted stain, but it won't have as much staying power." Practicality vs. Creativity In terms of practicality, stains could be just what you need, says Williams. "Stains can give your lip look longer wear when applied under a lipstick or lip gloss, which can benefi t you in less touch-ups needed if you're on a photo shoot or working with a bride!" she exclaims. Duprey agrees, adding that she views stains as another way to keep at the forefront of creative trends—especially in editorial. "A makeup artist working in fashion will have to use stains to keep up. But, I use them for both reasons—longevity and being on trend—and also because so many of my clients enjoy having a hint of color without feeling anything heavy on their lips," Duprey says. And while practicality certainly seems a solid reason to add stains to your lip rotation, Cruz views lip stains as yet another way to fl ex your artistry. " ey're like playing with paint …there's no limit to creating and experimenting," she says. " at's the beauty of lip stains and their ability to showcase true color and longevity. … e creativity is endless." RUNWAY'S BEST STAINS: HOW THEY DID IT 5 6 FIND OUT MORE OF OUR PROS' STICK-IT-TO-YOU STAIN TIPS, LIKE TROUBLESHOOTING AND REMOVAL, ONLINE AT EYELASHMAG.COM!

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