Eye Lash

NOV-DEC 2017

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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20 eye | la | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 | eyelashmag.com master class GET SMART Troubleshooting Volume Fans Your clients continue to clamor for the beyond-lush look of Volume lashes, but what if you're running up against problems when creating the necessary Volume fans? Here, Illumino Lashes CEO and founder Soo-Jin Yang pinpoints four Volume fan issues and eight ways to fi x them. PROBLEM #1: Rather than looking like a "V," the bases are crisscrossed at the fan's bottom base after picking up the fan off of the strip. This is likely due to how you use your tweezers, according to Yang. SOLUTION #1: "Instead of pulling the tweezers to the side, try to pull the tweezers directly up, using a fi rmer grip and lifting up the entire hand with the fan," she says. SOLUTION #2: "Hold the tweezers' grip evenly and securely while peeling the lashes off of the strip," she says. PROBLEM #3: The fan closes directly after placing it onto the natural lash. How far you dip the shaft of the lash extension's fan base into the adhesive can have this effect, according to Yang, as can how quickly you release your tweezers. SOLUTION #1: Rather than dipping your fan base into the adhesive too far, Yang suggests scooping up a tiny amount of glue—"½ mm of glue at the very bottom of the base is best," she says. SOLUTION #2: "This is probably the most frustrating part of creating Volume lashes: Letting go too fast and seeing your lash fan shift and close up," says Yang. Her solution: "Hold the fan a few seconds longer after attaching the fan onto the natural lash; this will help it stay open," she says. PROBLEM #4: Your fans aren't symmetrical. SOLUTION #1: Slow down. "Be patient. Going fast isn't always going to give you consistent, high-quality lash fans," says Yang, adding, "Creating a lash fan is a work of art!" SOLUTION #2: "When one side of your fan closes, it's never to late to fi x it," she assures. But you need to act fast. "If your glue isn't set, try to use the tips or the back of your tweezers to fl uff the lash extensions apart and spread the lashes evenly in-between each lash." After taking several lash extension classes and fi nding they lacked "key components to achieve greatness," Studio City, California-based Sinful Lashes owner Michelle Rath decided to start her own training program in 2013. "My goal was to change [what was offered] through quality education and eyelash extension products, and I haven't looked back," she says. She believes keeping at the forefront of an ever- evolving industry sets her educators apart. "My overall philosophy is 'knowledge is power.' There are so many changes and strides made in our industry yearly, monthly and even daily, so you need to have your pulse on those changes to be an effective educator," Rath says. Offering three core courses, Classic, Russian Volume and Mega Volume, with low instructor-to- student ratios (both the Russian Volume and Mega Volume courses boast one instructor per three students), Sinful Lashes Lash Academy focuses on a curriculum based around "eye health and safety fi rst, followed by beautiful technique, lash mapping and business building," says Rath. Additionally, students benefi t from the academy's continuing education support group where graduates can view video tips, have questions answered by educators and learn about in-person lash meet-ups held every few months. "Graduates can come to a free class at these meet-ups to get updated tips. We're invested in their success," Rath says. In addition to the Lash Academy, Rath also offers a Permanent Makeup training program (under Sinful Brows Eyebrow Academy) with microblading and ombré eyebrow courses, and notes that in early 2018 classes will be expanding to include permanent makeup courses for eyeliner and lips. Learn more at sinfullashes.com. Sinful Lashes Lash Academy eye ON EDUCATION PROBLEM #2: Your tweezers don't grip well enough to pick up the fans. "This issue can make it so that a 5D fan becomes a 3D fan," Yang laments. SOLUTION #1: "Become one with your volume tweezers," she says. "Find out where your tweezers' 'pinch area' is the best." You can do this by gripping the lashes with your tweezers and giving the fan a little wiggle so the lashes don't move from the grasp of the tweezers, Yang notes. SOLUTION #2: "Spot-check your Volume tweezers before starting each service to ensure there's no residual glue dried up inside the tips," she says. YES YES YES YES NO NO NO NO

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