Eye Lash

JUL-AUG 2016

Eye Lash covers the latest makeup, eyelash extension and eyebrow trends for makeup artists, lash and brow stylists, and other beauty industry professionals who provide eyelash extension, eyebrow shaping and makeup application services.

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46 eye | la | JULY/AUGUST 2016 | eyelashmag.com Moisture + adhesive = curing Eyelash extension adhesive is formulated with cyanoacrylate, a compound that enables delicate lash extensions to adhere to the natural lashes. Adhesion doesn't happen instantaneously, of course; there's a period of polymerization, during which the adhesive cures or dries. For polymerization to occur, you need some form of moisture, which may come from the natural humidity in the air, but can be augmented with the use of a nebulizer or nanomister. "The curing process will occur within minutes whether a device is used or not," notes Jill Heijligers- Peloquin, owner of Lash FX and Lash FX Academy, and founder of Global Lash Summit Events. "So, whether you use a nebulizer, a nanomister or neither is a personal choice." Both devices deliver water droplets, or vapor, to the area. (See "Nebulizers Versus Nanomisters," below.) Whether it comes from the air or from a device, moisture affects adhesive. But there are variables. "A high concentration of vapor impacts the cyanoacrylate in the adhesive, but its impact depends upon the thickness of the adhesive," explains Doug Schoon, scientist, educator and president of Schoon Scientifi c Regulatory Consulting in Dana Point, California. "Cyanoacrylate is formulated to set uniformly and slowly. It isn't like an epoxy—it's much more sensitive to water." In other words, the amount of adhesive you apply is a key factor in whether, how and when you can use a nebulizer or nanomister. If you use too much adhesive and then mist over that thickly applied coat, you could end up "shock curing" the cyanoacrylate. When this occurs, the adhesive doesn't cure uniformly: "The outside hardens, but underneath it isn't curing at the same rate," Schoon explains. The potential result, says Heijligers-Peloquin, is "a risk of causing cracks or striations in the lashes, thus weakening them." In other words: adhesive failure. Timing, temperature & humıdity Fortunately, most extensionists aren't using misters and nebulizers to set adhesive quickly; they're doing it to set it thoroughly. And the best way to do this? First, as mentioned above, avoid using too much adhesive. Second, use the right timing. "Wait until most of the polymerization has taken place," says Schoon. "Then, when it is almost cured, a nanomister or nebulizer can fi nish it off." The pace at which curing takes place also hinges on how humid it is in your treatment area. To eliminate the guesswork, Heijligers-Peloquin uses a hygrometer to measure temperature and relative humidity. "If polymerization isn't readily happening, this may be due to low humidity, and use of a mister, nebulizer, face steamer or room humidifi er could help," she says. However, she adds, "If lashes keep popping off, the humidity may be too high, and a dehumidifi er could be of use." In that case, anything that introduces more moisture would only worsen the situation. There is nothing new about the technology behind nebulizers and nanomisters; both have been used in the medical and cosmetology worlds for decades. The devices have simply been adapted, repurposed and, yes, remarketed, for lash extension services. Currently they're also being modernized—some come with USB cables to eliminate the need for batteries, for example. So are these simply two names for the same thing? Absolutely not, says Stefani Altieri, master lash trainer at StellaLash Academy in Howell, New Jersey, whose uses a nebulizer only. "The nebulizer uses ultrasonic technology and a mesh filter that the water passes through so it comes out as a cool vapor of moisture," she says. Altieri contrasts this to nanomisters, which she feels dispense too much moisture. Nebulizers also tend to be larger and more expensive than nanomisters—which is why so many nanomisters are coming on the market. Different devices do create different droplet sizes, notes Doug Schoon, scientist, educator and president of Schoon Scientific Regulatory Consulting. "I suspect that the smaller droplets have more advantages and provide better esthetics for the client. However, to me it isn't about how much water there is, or the size of the droplets, as much as it is about the thickness of the adhesive and at what point in the service the device is used." Nebulizers vs. Nanomisters

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